240 to 265 °C nozzle, 95 to 110 °C bed. Both bands sit about ten degrees above ABS, and an enclosure is required for the same reasons.
ASA is the styrenic you want for anything that lives outside. Everything else about it follows from that.
The property that justifies the material
ASA's UV resistance is rated excellent — the only material on this site with that rating. ABS, chemically its near neighbour, is rated poor, and an ABS part left in sunlight goes chalky, yellows and turns brittle within a season.
That single difference is the entire reason to accept ASA's higher temperatures, higher price and identical warping behaviour. For an indoor part, ABS does the same job for less.
What the extra ten degrees costs
Nothing structural, but it narrows your hardware options. A 265 °C nozzle is fine on any all-metal hotend and marginal on a machine with a PTFE-lined one: liner degradation sets in across a 240 to 260 °C band, so 265 puts you past the top of it rather than merely near the bottom.
Check the hotend before the spool. A printer that cannot hold 265 °C safely cannot run ASA at the top of its band, and the top of the band is where layer bonding is best.
Warping is at least as bad as ABS
Same 0.4 to 0.8% contraction, same enclosure requirement, same instruction to turn part cooling down. If anything ASA is less forgiving, because outdoor parts tend to be large and flat — exactly the geometry that lifts.
Draughts matter more than the numbers on the screen. An enclosure with a door that does not seal, or a machine near an open window, will produce warped ASA at any nozzle temperature.
Drying, which people skip
ASA needs 4 to 6 hours at 65 °C after any long period on the shelf. Wet ASA prints with a rough, hazy surface and poor layer bonds, and on an outdoor part poor layer bonds are where water eventually gets in.
Every stored figure for the material is on the ASA page, and the head-to-head against its cheaper cousin is at ASA vs ABS.