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Filament material selector

Best fit for these requirements

PLA

PLA is weakest here on heat resistance, and is genuinely bad at: anything left in a hot car — it sags near 55 C; outdoor parts, which go chalky and brittle under UV; parts that need to bend without snapping.

  1. 1.PLA70.1% match

    Ease of printing 36% · Strength 32% · Cost 24% · Heat resistance 8%

    Weakest on heat resistance — scores 24 out of 100 there.

    Genuinely bad at: anything left in a hot car — it sags near 55 C; outdoor parts, which go chalky and brittle under UV; parts that need to bend without snapping.

  2. 2.PLA+65.4% match

    Ease of printing 38% · Strength 27% · Cost 22% · Heat resistance 12%

    Weakest on heat resistance — scores 32 out of 100 there.

    Genuinely bad at: heat resistance — it is no better than PLA above 55 C despite the name; fine detail, because the toughener makes it slightly stringier.

  3. 3.PETG64.1% match

    Ease of printing 29% · Strength 28% · Cost 24% · Heat resistance 20%

    Weakest on heat resistance — scores 50 out of 100 there.

    Genuinely bad at: clean overhangs — it droops more than PLA; fine detail, because it strings unless retraction is tuned; gluing; most common adhesives do not bond it well.

    • prints on an open frame, but large flat parts will lift at the corners without one
    • must be dried before printing (65 °C, 4-6 h)
  4. 4.High-speed PLA63.7% match

    Ease of printing 39% · Strength 28% · Cost 24% · Heat resistance 9%

    Weakest on heat resistance — scores 24 out of 100 there.

    Genuinely bad at: slow printers, where the extra flow headroom buys nothing; fine detail at the speeds it advertises.

  5. 5.PETG-CF58.1% match

    Strength 39% · Heat resistance 25% · Ease of printing 22% · Cost 14%

    Weakest on ease of printing — scores 50 out of 100 there.

    Genuinely bad at: brass nozzles; transparency; impact loading.

    • prints on an open frame, but large flat parts will lift at the corners without one
    • must be dried before printing (65 °C, 6-8 h)

What the part has to do

0 means it does not matter; 5 means it decides the answer.

Strength

tensile strength of the polymer, from published data sheets

Heat resistance

heat deflection temperature — the point the part starts to sag under load

Outdoor / UV

how the polymer survives sunlight and weather over months

Food contact

RELATIVE ranking only — see the advisory; no FDM print is reliably food-safe

Flexibility

whether the part must bend and return to shape

Ease of printing

inverse of the difficulty rating: enclosure, drying and process window

Cost

price per kilogram at mainstream retail

What your machine can do

These three facts eliminate more options than every material property combined, which is why the ranking asks about the printer as well as the part.

Decides whether polycarbonate and filled nylon are even available.
Decides whether ABS, ASA and polycarbonate are realistic at any useful size.
Decides whether filled materials are available today or after an order arrives.

Ruled out by your machine, not by your requirements (15 of 35)

  • ABSrequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • ASArequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • HIPSrequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • Nylon 6 (PA6)requires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • Nylon 12 (PA12)requires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • Nylon 6/12 (PA612)requires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • ABS-CFrequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • PA6-CFrequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • PA6-GFrequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • Polycarbonaterequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • PC-ABSrequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • PPA (high-temp nylon)requires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • ULTEM 9085 (PEI)needs at least 350 °C at the nozzle; this machine reaches 300 °C; requires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • PEEKneeds at least 380 °C at the nozzle; this machine reaches 300 °C; requires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.
  • Polypropylenerequires an enclosure at any useful size, and this machine is open-frame.

Get new materials as they are added to the ranking

Once a month: materials added to the data behind this ranking, re-checked strength and heat figures, and the cases where a shortlist here turned out to be wrong in practice.

One email a month. Unsubscribe from any of them.

Most material advice starts from the material and works toward a use. This works the other way: state what the part has to survive, and get a shortlist of materials that can survive it.

A shortlist rather than a winner, because most requirements have more than one reasonable answer, and the tiebreaker is usually what your printer can do rather than what the polymer can.

The questions that actually narrow the field

Service temperature. The single most decisive constraint, and the one people underestimate. PLA gives up between 52 and 60 °C, which a parked car exceeds on a summer day. PETG buys you to around 70–80 °C, ABS and ASA to 90–105 °C, polycarbonate to 110–140 °C. Everything above that needs a heated chamber and a machine most people do not own.

Outdoor exposure. Ultraviolet light attacks some polymers and not others. PLA is the first to fail this filter: sunlight takes it chalky and brittle in a single season. ABS yellows and cracks because ultraviolet attacks its butadiene phase. ASA was formulated specifically to fix that, and PETG holds up well. If the part lives outside, this question eliminates more candidates than any other.

Flexibility. A real yes-or-no. If the part must bend and return, you are in TPU or TPE territory and the printing constraints change completely — slow speeds, a short constrained filament path, and a direct-drive extruder.

Stiffness against toughness. These pull in opposite directions and people conflate them. PLA is stiff and brittle; it resists bending and then shatters. PETG is slightly less stiff and considerably tougher; it deforms before it fails. For a clip, a bracket or anything that gets dropped, toughness wins. For a jig that must not deflect, stiffness does.

What you are willing to put up with. A material's difficulty rating is a real constraint, not a challenge. Unfilled nylon on an open-frame printer without a dry box will waste more filament in failures than the material costs.

What the printer rules out before the material does

Maximum nozzle temperature decides whether polycarbonate and filled nylon are even available. An enclosure decides whether ABS, ASA and polycarbonate are realistic at any useful size. A hardened nozzle decides whether filled materials are available today or after an order arrives.

Those three facts about your machine eliminate more options than every material property combined, which is why the selector asks about the printer as well as the part.

Where the honest answers live

Every material page on this site ends with what that material is genuinely bad at, because a shortlist that only lists strengths is a catalogue. The weaknesses are what make a shortlist into a decision.

If you already know your two candidates, the comparison pages go deeper on the specific pairs people choose between.

Two requirements that quietly change the answer

Food contact. No printed part is genuinely food-safe by default. The nozzle, the plate and the layer lines all introduce contamination paths that have nothing to do with whether the base polymer is food-grade. Treat this as a design question rather than a material question, and assume any printed part in food contact is single-use unless it has been sealed.

Gluing and painting. PETG resists most common adhesives, polypropylene resists nearly all of them, and PLA and ABS take glue and paint readily. If the part is one piece of an assembly that gets bonded, this is worth deciding before the material rather than after.

When the shortlist has one item

That usually means the temperature requirement is doing the eliminating, and it is worth double-checking the number before buying an expensive spool. "It gets warm" is not a specification; measure it if you can, because the difference between 55 °C and 75 °C is the difference between a cheap material and an enclosure.

When the shortlist is empty

Redesign before you go up the material ladder. A thicker section, a different orientation, a metal insert or splitting the part in two will often bring a requirement back inside a material you can actually print, and every step up that ladder costs money, time and reliability.

What a shortlist like this usually needs on the bench

Product searches rather than specific listings, because a listing identifier goes stale silently.

  • A filament dryer

    A heated, ventilated box that holds one or two spools at 45–80 °C.

    27 of the 35 materials in this site's data require drying before printing, and the polyamides need 80 °C for eight hours or more — above what most food dehydrators reach and well above an oven's usable low end. Wet filament fails in ways that read as extruder problems, which is why the troubleshooting pages keep arriving back here.

    Find one
  • A hardened steel nozzle

    A hardened or ruby-tipped nozzle in your machine's thread and size.

    6 of the materials here are fibre-filled composites, and the glow, wood and metal-filled grades are abrasive too. Brass wears measurably within tens of hours on any of them, and a worn nozzle changes extrusion width, which quietly invalidates every dimension you calibrated.

    Find one